Road Trip

The weather windows from Havana to Miami have had tight shutters on them since our arrival at Hemingway Marina so we decide to take a road trip to Viñales, 120 miles east of here. We waffle over renting a car but we hear that the road to Viñales is pretty bad so we opt for an air-conditioned bus there for $12 each. Our experience with buses in Havana so far has been pretty positive so we’re optimistic as we stroll up to the pickup area in the resort next door at 8:15 am Thursday morning. We’ve pre-paid for two return tickets to Vinales and we’ve even pre-booked a casa particular that has come highly recommended by the tour agent at the resort.

This is the sort of traffic you should expect on the way to Vinales (view from our bus window)

This is the sort of traffic you should expect on the way to Vinales (view from our bus window)

The bus is scheduled to pick us up at 8:40 but we’re early just to ensure we don’t miss it. Buses come and go, picking up folks heading into Havana for the day or to the beach but there’s no sign of our bus. Around 9 am we start pestering the resort desk but they are no help and finally the tour agent arrives at her desk in the lobby. She calls the head office for us and relays that it’s on its way and we need to wait. At 9:45 we are severely PO’d because the bus is still not here yet the tour agent is still telling us that it is coming and we should still wait. At 10:30 I ask her if we need to get a refund and simply call a taxi to go to Viñales. She tells me there are no refunds and we should still wait. At 10:45 Blair is grinding his teeth and I tell him that he should stay put while I go talk to the tour agent. She dials the head office again and tells me that it is coming that we should still wait but she has no credibility with me and I’m wondering if that bus is already in Vinales as it is only a 2 ½ hour ride and the bus is almost 2 ½ hours late. Eureka! At 10:55 the bus arrives to pick us up and it seems that the bus driver didn’t show that morning – what can I say…this is Cuba and we’re probably lucky that it wasn’t a case of mañana. It’s 31 Celsius outside but the bus is wonderfully cool so we settle into our seats and a few hours later we’re climbing up a series of small mountains and then coasting down the other side into Viñales.

View of Viñales from Los Jazmines

View of Viñales from Los Jazmines

We arrive in the center of town, the bus pulls over and the door opens but it’s not a simple matter to step down. Our path is blocked by at least 10 Cubans at the foot of the stairs flashing 8 x 10 glossies of casa particulars (B&B’s), tours to this and tours to that. I squeeze out first and escape to the relative quiet of a group of tourists waiting for a bus back to Havana. Blair it seems is far more polite than I and he stops to say ‘No gracias’ a few times and that’s pretty much done him in because a stout blonde woman with a big umbrella now has him in hand and she’s definitely not letting him go. I dig out the business card for the casa particular where the tour agent has secure reservations for us and I show it to the blonde. She shakes her head and shows us pictures of her casa but eventually gives up and graciously decides to walk us over to the place we’ve reserved.

We follow her down the main street and then a dogleg down a side street to the right and another to the left but then she stops and says she really wants to show us her place. We have a quick conference between the two of us and agree that if her place is really nice, we’ll ditch the other; after all, the casa we’d reserved was meant to have someone waiting for us at the bus. We reason that our blonde lady is working hard for us and deserves our business. She takes us over to her casa particular and we realize that it’s actually not hers….she’s just an ‘agent’ and for a fee she grabs the tourists off the bus and brings them to the various casas and, in return, they give her a half CUC (that’s 50 cents!) for the favor. She starts to show us through the casa but it seems that there is another tourista couple that has grabbed it already so she shrugs and agrees to take us on to the place where we had the reservation. When we get to that casa particular, we’re foiled once again as it appears that a reservation is not all it is cracked up to be and another couple has already grabbed our room. Our blonde lady is not at all concerned and she leads us to another casa particular that she assures us is ‘really clean’. The daughter of the house lets us in and we peek inside the room (it’s got a double bed plus a single and everything is red….curtains, bedspread, walls and yes it is very clean). I check the bathroom and it has a shower, sink, toilet (with a toilet seat!) and an air conditioning unit on the wall. Toilet seats are usually missing in most of the Cuban bathrooms so we take this as a good sign and agree to take it at $25 a night.

We dump our knapsack in the room and find our way back to the main street, ready to start exploring Viñales. This is the primo tobacco growing area in Cuba. As a bonus for us, it has a special designation where the farmers can only use traditional Cuban farming techniques. That means no pesticides, no tractors….just horse and oxen, manual labour and sun, rain and compost. We hike 4 kilometers up to Los Jazmines for lunch with a good view of the Vinales valley. It’s dotted with hump-backed sort of mountains and fertile fields in between and is so picturesque that we figure it’s good that we have a digital camera rather than using rolls and rolls of film to capture the essence of Viñales.

Arroz negro, a combo rice and black bean dish that is a favourite here in Cuba

Arroz negro, a combo rice and black bean dish that is a favourite here in Cuba

On our hike up to the top of Los Jazmines, men appear out of the woods (literally!!) and hold up big handfuls of fine cigars they’ve rolled. One guy has our attention and Blair calls out ‘Quanto questo?’ (how much). This guy holds up 10 fingers and Blair looks at me quizzically. I shrug and say that maybe he’d rather buy his cigars when we go for our tobacco farm tour the next day. Blair says ‘Gracias no’ and we continue on but the man calls out again and holds up five fingers so Blair hands over five dollars and it’s a done deal. We keep hiking higher looking for a good view but mostly we’re looking for somewhere to eat at this point. We eat lunch at the Buena Vista restaurant for $20 and agree that we won’t need to eat again until the following day. Our waitress sets out chicken and vegetable soup, black bean soup, BBQ’d chicken, arroz negro, stir-fried vegetable rice, salad, squash, fruit plates and cold Crystal beer.

After lunch we walk over to the Hotel Jazmines looking for a driver to take us on a tour of the valley the next day. There is a tour agent in the lobby who speaks excellent English and I tell him we want a driver who speaks good English to take us around. The tour agent says, ‘Oh you want a driver AND a guide?’ ‘Absolutely’, I tell him. He calls over Reiner who has a ’57 Ford in pristine condition and tells us that Reiner doesn’t speak English that well but he ‘communicates’ in English Very well. Hmmmm….we like Reiner’s smile and we really like his car so we agree that he’ll pick us up at our casa particular the next morning at 9 am.

Cueva del Indio

Cueva del Indio

Turns out Reiner is a pretty good guide and has no problem ‘communicating’ with us. He takes us to Cueva del Indio, a limestone-walled cave that takes about 10 minutes to walk through. Most of these rounded mountains (myotes) have caves in them, created by eons of rainwater and run off that wear down the softer bits of the mountain. There’s a trail through this cave system that ends at an underground lake where a motor boat picks us up to take us out to the other side. There are a few others waiting with us for the boat and we’re lucky to be first on. We scramble to the front of the boat and grab our seats and then all the lights are extinguished in the cave system. It is pitch black and I immediately reach out for Blair, calling his name. Our hands connect at the same time that a dozen iPhones are switched on as flashlights so everyone stays pretty calm. Reiner is waiting for us at the end of our boat ride through the caves and we climb back in the old Ford and he drives us deeper into the valley.

At some point in our tour is a stop at a tobacco farm that Reiner knows. The fields are green with tobacco plants in various stages of growth. We walk through an area of fresh-cut plants carefully because the leftover stalks are an inch thick and cut on an angle and are as sharp as a kitchen knife. To fall on one of these stalks would likely result in a pretty deep gash. The leaves from the harvested tobacco stalks are hung on long poles for drying. Our guide tells us that the leaves dry in the sun for two or three days and then are brought indoors for a few months of drying.

Three-year-old tobacco

Three-year-old tobacco

We make our way into the drying shed where our guide offers Blair a freshly rolled cigar. The guide speaks English fairly well and gives us a good overview of how the tobacco is processed once it is dry. The leaves are mixed with the farm’s special ‘marinade’ and packed tightly into bales to ‘steep’ until it’s ready for rolling into cigars. Each tobacco farm in Vinales has their own secret tobacco marinade which can consist of things like honey, oranges, caramel and other ingredients that provide a unique flavour to the cigar. The guide rolled a cigar to demonstrate the basic technique for us and stressed that, at his farm, they always stripped the main vein out of the tobacco leaf because that part has the highest concentration of nicotine. Removing this vein makes for a milder cigar. Apparently the cigar gets stronger and stronger depending on where the leaves are grown on the plant. Leaves from the bottom of the plant are relatively mild but the ones at the very top (the corona) are especially strong. As the guide demonstrates his craft to us, his little brother reaches up to take one of the newly rolled cigars. Our guide gently takes the cigar away from the three-year old and nonchalantly hands him one that was already smoldering in an ashtray. That little guy wanders around the drying shed for a good half hour, all the while puffing on that fat cigar; they start young in Cuba I think.

Public transport in most small Cuban towns is via dump trucks

Public transport in most small Cuban towns is via dump trucks


We stay two nights in Viñales and explore the area, walking mostly, sometimes with a driver. We eat dinners at a great Mediterranean restaurant we find on the main street and decide that we’ve now had the best dinner yet in Cuba. Our landlady at the casa particular is disappointed that we don’t eat dinner at her house but we find that most casas typically serve very bland meals of fried marlin (very dry), copious amounts of white rice and cabbage and tomatoes. We tell her that we would like breakfast both mornings though and she perks up at bit. Her breakfasts turn out a little odd though and one morning we are served hot dogs sliced lengthwise in quarters. She redeems herself just a little by providing huge pitchers of freshly-squeezed juice but we’re really glad we didn’t go for the dinner package here!

More dogs than you'd want to shake a stick at I think

More dogs than you’d want to shake a stick at I think

In Viñales, just like every other Cuban city or village we’ve visited, the dogs run the show. We’ve never seen so many dogs running loose. They lie all over the sidewalks and make drivers stop to let them cross the streets. They trot up and down the side streets in packs and even walk into restaurants and sit at your table begging for food! Blair keeps taking photos of them for some reason…perhaps he will mount a retrospective of Cuban dog shots in some gallery when we return. He keeps asking me why I don’t post any shots so I’ve given in for this post.

The trip is over now, we’re still at Marina Hemingway, still waiting for good weather to duck across the Gulf Stream to Miami, still warm.

Drying tobacco

Drying tobacco

Havana

Marina Hemingway is not your average marina. It’s four long canals that run parallel to the north coast with side-on tie ups to concrete walls. Canal #1 is closest to the sea and is for indigents…actually, the marina says it is for long-term stays because it’s half price but, from our view right here, it’s full of mostly abandoned boats or sailboats with shredded sails that have dogged their way here from Miami thinking it’s cheaper to live in Cuba. There’s a sailboat here that’s been sitting in Canal#1 for 14 years; no fees have been paid but it’s still there floating. Five doors up is a half-sunken motorboat.

Sunday fishing on the river next to the marina

Sunday fishing on the river next to the marina

Canal #2 is where they put all the cruisers and Strathspey is tied up here. It’s a good football field east of the showers but on the north side of the canal so we only walk one side of that football field for our daily ablutions. Less fortunate boats assigned dockage on the south side of the canal must walk twice that distance to get to showers. So, here’s a head’s up…if you are planning to come to Marina Hemingway, it’s worth a bottle of rum ($5.80) to secure dockage on the north side of Canal #2. Canal #3 is less full and we have heard it is strictly for medical tourists here in Cuba for various treatments, most of whom are from Venezuela. Canal #4 is empty because there are basically no facilities there; no water, no power, nada.

Typical pharmacy in Havana

Typical pharmacy in Havana

Havana is available via a free shuttle bus from the resort next door into Viejo Havana. It’s a half-hour ride in an air-conditioned bus and a pretty easy way to get into the old city. Our first visit into the city we wander up and down Opisbo Street, dodging the 3000-odd tourists that were disgorged from a cruise ship in the harbour. We’ve never seen the old city this crowded. We take refuge at the Hotel Parque Central, a five-star hotel just north of Opisbo and are delighted to finally find wifi – something we haven’t had since December.

Jianinitis market stall

Jiaminitis market stall

The small village next door to Marina Hemingway is Jiamanitas where we can buy a limited variety of fruit and vegetables every day from small carts in the streets. On Saturday mornings there is a big market with just about every Cuban vegetable and fruit you can think of, including quite a few odd looking ones that we can’t put a name to.

Soda crackers for sale on Havana curbside

Soda crackers for sale on Havana curbside

We often spend our afternoons in Havana Vieja wandering down side streets and exploring, listening to music in cafes and one time touring the Cuban Revolutionary Museum. It is housed in Batista’s presidential palace and front and center on our tour are the bullet holes displayed in the marble staircase; the aftermath of one of the coup attempts here in the capital. It’s hot here but there is usually a good breeze in the marina. We’re watching the weather for a good window back to the USA now. Each time a cold front reaches south we get northeast winds but when the front moves on the winds go east or southeast. For the past while those east and southeast winds have been just a little too high for an enjoyable trip back across the Gulf Stream so we enjoy Havana and wait for mild southeast winds to establish and then we’ll head north.

All produce prices are quoted per pound here at the market

All produce prices are quoted per pound here at the market

Hotel Juventud

We stay tied to the concrete pier in Nueva Gerona for five grey, windy, cool days. To pass the time we layer up in long-sleeved shirts and polar fleeces and wander through this town of 20,000. It’s a city of contrasts running the gamete of modern marble pedestrian malls and dirt-poor back streets. Along one of the back streets we stop to watch three men making concrete bricks, used for house foundations; the process is primitive but the end result is definitely a concrete brick, although I’m not so sure I’d want to use them in a foundation over a Canadian winter.

Brick  construction Cuba style

Brick construction Cuba style

One of the downtown streets is set up as a flea market of sorts and we stop to chat with Lio, a young print maker. He speaks a bit of English and is really charming and wants to show us how his old-fashioned printing press works. Later that day we rummage through Strathspey’s lockers and find a small plastic bin of unused pencil crayons, crayolas, and ink pens plus a bound book of good drawing paper. We find Lio again and offer this treasure trove to him and he is almost speechless but so happy. This sort of stuff is not found in Cuba very easily and we’re happy to perhaps make a difference in this young man’s life.

Fixing windlass in Nueva Gerona

Fixing windlass in Nueva Gerona

During our stay here Blair takes Strathspey’s anchor windlass apart and tries to find the source of the grinding noise its been making over the last week. He re-greases the spindle on the windlass and cleans the accumulated rust off all the electrical connections. The bolts on the gearbox are seized so he can’t take it apart and we make a mental note to have that looked at back in Florida. The salt water has been hard on Strathspey and the type of windlass mount on our bow is definitely not a good design for salt water use as it allows this sort of rusting and seizing to happen.

Finally, the constant strong Northeast winds ease slightly and, after checking with weather guy Chris Parker, we decide that we perhaps have a window to sail around to the north coast of Cuba. We’ve been waiting for this weather window for almost two weeks. A few years ago while in the Bahamas, every morning on Chris Parker’s weather broadcast, a woman on a catamaran would call him for a personal forecast. Like us, she had paid Chris Parker a yearly fee that allowed her to call him for specific routing information. We think it is money well spent and we still use Chris here in Cuba but are also reading weather grib files downloaded on our SSB radio. Every morning in the Bahamas this particular woman would jump in with her routing request as soon as Chris opened up his broadcast for questions. She and her husband were trying to get from the Bahamas down to Luperon, Dominican Republic and they just weren’t getting the forecast they needed. So, every day for approximately three weeks, we’d hear her asking the same question. After the second week Blair and I would say to each other, ‘Oh man, it’s her again, this is getting tiring….she takes up a lot of broadcast time’. We were fairly unsympathetic even though we knew that the number one rule when cruising is to pick your weather windows well. So now here on the south coast, I’m that woman. I’ve talked to Chris Parker every day for two weeks, telling him that we are trying to get around the western cape, Cabo San Antonio, and onto the north coast. I’m sure people are thinking, ‘Oh for goodness sakes, just go for it!’ The strong northern fronts have been reaching quite a bit further south this winter and we’ve been getting constant 25-knot winds from the wrong direction so we’re almost feeling like we’re trapped down here in Isla de la Juventud. It’s like Hotel Juventud…you can check in but you can never leave.

Strathspey tied to concrete pier with ferries

Strathspey tied to concrete pier with ferries

But finally one day, Chris gives us good news and we think we have a long enough period of time to make the leap around the corner to the north side. We notify the Guarda Fronteras that we are leaving Sunday morning at 11 am. In fact, I’ve told three officials that we want to leave at 11 am but it’s still not clear to me that they’ve understood exactly what we want.

At 11 am, we’re ready to go. Our dinghy is securely tied on the coach roof at Strathspey’s bow, our diesel tank is full and we have two jugs of spare diesel tied on Strathspey’s port rail and one in the starboard locker. There’s no sign of the Guarda officials though. I walk up to the guardhouse and there are two women security guards who don’t know where the guarda officials are. They motion to their telephone and say that it is dead so they can’t call. One of the workmen offers to bike by the guarda office at the mouth of the river to tell them we need our dispacho. It’s a five-minute bike ride and 45 minutes later there is still no sight of the guarda with our dispacho. Guermo, a naval engineer on one of the ferries docked behind us calls the guarda office for us and says they’ll be at Strathspey in 25 minutes. Sure enough, a male and female guarda official arrive at 12:30 pm but they’ve forgotten the dispacho back at the office. There’s another delay while the male guarda gets back on his bike and rides back out to the mouth of the river to get our document but by 1 pm, we are casting off our lines and motoring back down the river. All the way down this foul river we pass men sitting in huge truck tire innertubes, floating down the river, legs in the water up to their knees. Their fishing rods jerk occasionally and they pull up 6-inch long silvery fish. We can’t imagine eating anything out of this particular river because it is so polluted but there are plenty of these fishermen who obviously do.

We don’t have far to go this afternoon. We’ve decided to spend the night at Ensenada Los Barcos again and make a series of long day sails until we finally get around the cape. It’s a beautiful, sunny day and we make good speed. Blair comments casually that if I were up for it, he’d be fine doing an overnight sail all the way to Maria La Gorda. We check the grib files once again and do some mileage calculations and decide that it makes good weather sense to get to Maria La Gorda in this nice northeast wind. Blair adjusts our route waypoints on the chart plotter and I dig out my foul-weather gear just in case the waves get higher. In regular clothes, once I get wet with salt water, I just stay wet until I can change so the foul-weather gear works best. It’s an uneventful night and at 9 am we tie up to a mooring ball in 20 feet of water just west of the long beach at Maria La Gorda. The water is crystal clear here. In fact, this is the clearest water we’ve seen in all our travels through Cuba. The sea bed 20 feet below us looks like it is only a foot under our keel.

Strathspey's profile in clear water at Maria La Gorda

Strathspey’s profile in clear water at Maria La Gorda

I call Chris Parker to get tomorrow’s forecast to confirm that we’re still on track for a nice rounding of Cabo San Antonio and he tells me that all still looks good but that the wind is going to blow like stink from the northeast for a good long time once this short window closes. Blair and I talk about this new bit of information for a good long while, weighing the pros and cons of getting stuck in a remote anchorage on the north coast rather than being in Havana exploring the city and doing some other inland travel. We decide to get a good night’s sleep tonight and leave pre-dawn on Tuesday to sail all the way to Havana. We map out a few bailout anchorages on the north coast in case we don’t like the weather or if the window closes suddenly. Once we’ve made that decision, we check in with the guarda and he tells us that we should pick up our dispacho that night at 6 pm if we plan to leave so early the next day. This simplifies things for us and we spend the rest of the day snorkeling and walking ashore at Maria La Gorda. We arrange to buy a 20-liter jug of diesel from a fishing boat tied to the pier beside the beach. We don’t really need it but it gives me some added reassurance that if the winds don’t cooperate we can motor toward Havana.

We sleep soundly after the previous day’s 17-hour trip and at 6 am on Tuesday we drop the mooring ball line and turn toward Cabo San Antonio. The guidebooks warn that rounding this cape is one of the hardest trips. The winds must be moderate and in the right direction. You must be the right distance off shore in order to avoid the Cuban countercurrent that runs southwest around the cape and then east along the south coast. In opposing winds, you must stay out of the Yucatan current, a north flowing component of the Gulf Stream that can run at speeds above 5 knots at times. You must stay far enough off the capes and headlands in this area so as to avoid the turbulent water caused by shallow areas. With all these requirements, it’s understandable that I’m a little nervous as we approach Cabo San Antonio. We sail at 6 knots until we make the turn North to pass the cape. The waves are steep and choppy far inshore but out where we are, it’s mostly just long, gentle and manageable waves. Now that we’re heading north, we feel the effects of the countercurrent but it’s not too overwhelming as we’re still sailing at 4.9 knots. Once we pass the cape and turn northeast, the wind changes to an easterly direction and we are close-hauled and sailing at 6.5 knots in fairly flat water.

Radar display on Strathspey's chart plotter

Radar display on Strathspey’s chart plotter

As the day progresses and night falls, the wind gradually clocks around to the south and, in the lee of the Cuban coastline, we see only 1-foot waves. Around midnight our knot meter reads 7.5 knots so we think the Gulfstream is looping in close to shore and helping us along. Our plotted course keeps us about 1.5 miles off shore, occasionally two miles. At 2 am, our knot meter reads 8.8 knots so we are sure we are in the Gulfstream as the true wind is only 7 knots. Blair keeps saying, ‘Oh, we picked the best window. How could it get any better?!’ I don’t want to jinx anything so all I say is, ‘It seems good so far’.

By 9 am we can see the tall buildings of Havana and at 12:30 pm we make the turn down the channel into Marina Hemmingway. There’s a certain cachet about this particular marina and its namesake writer so we’re pretty excited to have finally arrived here. We pull over to the customs dock and get checked in by the two guarda officials. It’s a first for us in Cuba when one of the guarda officials asks us for US dollars and CUCs, ‘I need it for my baby’. He makes a cursory check down below and when he opens up our Nav station desk and sees our Canadian iPhones, he asks if he can have them. We just keep saying no and eventually he stops pestering us. This is also the first time we have been asked to show our medical insurance and are surprised when they copy down the policy numbers. It’s a short checkin though and then we leave the customs dock and motor past the entrance to canals 3 and 4 and make a right turn into Canal number 2 where we’ve been assigned a spot at the concrete wall on the north side; 196 miles and 30 hours from Maria La Gorda!

We’re excited to have easy access to Havana and plan to stay here for a few weeks to explore it, listen to some good music, perhaps take an inland trip to the western end of Cuba and definitely to get some good nights’ sleeps tied to a secure dock in a sheltered canal.

I’ve posted some photos on the older messages. Check the one of Blair’s tuna!!!

Some people want more than a dinghy for transportation

Some people want more than a dinghy for transportation

Nueva Gerona

Nueva Gerona is not a tourist destination. It’s not even a cruiser’s destination. In fact, upon our arrival the port captain has stressed that there are ‘No tourista here’ so we’re not to act like we’re tourists and we can only stay two nights. We negotiate for a third night because of bad weather and also so Blair can replace our engine water pump. We don’t want to stay here too long because the river is pretty dirty and the concrete pier we are tied to is close to the ferry garbage area and I’ve seen a rat scuttling around it. The morning of our departure, Blair begins to fold up our companionway mosquito netting and I hear him yell and drop the netting. There is a 2-inch cockroach clinging to the netting. It’s dark and all Blair can feel is the cockroach’s legs scrabbling against his hand, trying to get away. In short order, the cockroach floats in the grimy river and we spend the next 20 minutes looking cautiously around Strathspey‘s decks, trying to confirm that there was only the one big bug aboard.

Street sweeper in Nueva Gerona

Street sweeper in Nueva Gerona

We cast off and make our way down the river toward open water. It’s a northwest wind today so we decide to sail back down to Cayo Rosario to spend a few more days there; we hadn’t gone ashore at all and we wanted to snorkel over that beautiful reef one more time. We pull out our light-air asymmetrical sail and have a wonderful downwind sail all day. There’s not a cloud in the sky and the water over the banks is turquoise clear. We arrive at Cayo Rosario around 5 pm and take in our sail and begin to motor over to anchor in the lee of the island. There’s a fishing boat that’s heading our way, changing their trajectory as we change ours while heading in toward shore. We think they might want to sell us some lobster; our German friends had told us they had purchased seven huge lobsters for two 750 ml bottles of rum and $5. Blair gets proactive and digs out one 750 ml bottle of Havana Club rum (worth $5.80 here). He stands on Strathspey‘s foredeck and holds up the bottle of rum and the fishermen all yell their appreciation and one of them holds up a huge lobster – we understand that they’ll trade us the bottle of rum for that big guy; this is a good trade as I know that bug will feed us for two dinners easily.

Rum for lobster

Rum for lobster

I hold Strathspey in place as the fishing boat slowly nudges up beside us and Blair puts the bottle of rum in our fishing net. Blair has also tucked in a small ziplock bag with 50 meters of monofilament fishing line and 6-7 fishhooks. He extends the fishing net across to them and they’re pretty excited about the fishing line. They put the big lobster in the net and then they put another one in and then another one; they really like that fishing line we think. We’d brought extra line and lots of assorted fishhooks down here with us because we’d heard how hard they are to get in Cuba. Blair pulls the net back aboard Strathspey and we have four huge lobsters, easily six pounds of lobster meat once extracted. As an afterthought, a young guy on the bow asks us if we have coffee. Blair goes below and digs out a handful of single coffee bags for them and they are really happy. It will be a cruel hoax tomorrow morning though when they realize that it is decaffeinated- the only coffee aboard Strathspey other than our espresso. As we turn toward shore and they head the opposite way, we see all of them crowded around the fisherman holding the fishing line, heads bent down, loud talking and lots of gesticulation. We think that it never hurts to be proactive.

We’re cautious as we nose around in eight feet of water, looking for good holding here at Cayo Rosario. We dragged here the last time in and are not looking to repeat that experience. Blair is on the bow as usual and he’s picky tonight, motioning me forward and to port and then to starboard. He signals that he’s found a good spot and wants to drop anchor there so I power back to a stop as he pays out the anchor chain. Blair lets out 75 feet as extra insurance and I back down on it and we hold fast. Here’s hoping we have a good (i.e. uninterrupted) sleep tonight.

Our apc sail leaving Nueva Gerona

Our apc sail leaving Nueva Gerona

It’s a good night and the next morning when we wake up we dinghy over to Cayo Cantiles across the channel. Our guidebook tells us that there is a park here with wardens that manage the indigenous species of iguanas and caiman (small crocodiles) on the island. We are met at the beach landing by the head park warden and he is welcoming and gracious and obviously happy to have company. He points out the various trails we can walk and says help yourself (or an approximation of that in Spanish). We head down the nearest trail which very shortly becomes a difficult hike as the soft ground changes to razor rock. Three black pigs dash out of the woods when we walk by, startling us, but they ignore us and we continue down the trail which narrows and becomes even more hazardous. After 45 minutes we arrive at a lagoon and, despite hanging around for awhile, we don’t see any birds or crocodiles so we head back toward the warden’s cabin. They’ve got a fire going in their outdoor cooking pit and what looks like a pot of odds and sods of fish heads etc steaming away. The warden says, ‘Comida’…our midday meal. We hand over $6 and tell them that this is for the preservation of the park – doubtless, they need it.

After lunch we dinghy over to the reef beside the marker buoys in the Canal del Rosario which all boats follow for safe passage in to Cayo Rosario and Cayo Cantiles. This reef is one of the nicest we’ve snorkeled on in Cuba. The fish aren’t a bit cautious of us and we float around them. We see dense schools of grunts, huge yellow tail snappers, barjacks, parrotfish and ….bonus, we see a puffer fish. Such a strange-looking thing. It’s been a great few days and now we think we should start heading further west, around the western cape of Cuba and onto the north shore.

The next morning, the wind is from the northeast and we up-anchor and head out the Canal del Rosario and turn right toward the western end of Cuba. We follow the reef line because Blair is keen to catch another mahi mahi or something just as edible. Right off the bat, he catches a yellow tail snapper. We’re excited because this is the first snapper he’s caught ever. He filets the snapper and we have enough fish for three meals! Blair’s pumped now and he puts out two lines, one on each side of Strathspey‘s stern. Disappointingly, he catches barracuda after barracuda. I don’t like the taste of barracuda….and, that particular fish is prone to ciguatera poisoning, a toxin-type poison that can result in muscle aches, stomach pain and just all-round nastiness. Blair uses his gaff hook to ‘help’ the barracuda off his line and finally, after way too many barracuda, he pulls in both lines.

We make a right turn into the Pasa Punta del Este, a 0.8 mile wide channel through the reefs and we turn toward Cayo Matias to anchor for the evening. This cayo has good holding but in fairly shallow water. We motor 30 minutes in toward our anchorage at a slow speed, with less than two feet under our keel. Despite the wind, we have no waves as we are in the lee of the cayo. I cook the yellowtail snapper dusted in panko breadcrumbs and sautéed in butter and it’s every bit as good as we anticipated.

Cruise ship pilon with Strathspey hanging on

Cruise ship pilon with Strathspey hanging on

The next morning, we up-anchor and sail around the south shore of Isla de la Juventud. This is a big island and was a huge citrus-producing area for many years until back-to-back hurricanes in the mid-2000’s wiped it out. Nueva Gerona is on the northeast shore of Juventud and, at this point, we’re now 180 degrees from there; progress right? Today, we sail up the western shore of Juventud to Ensenada Puerto Frances. This is a marine park and is known for wonderful diving. There is a reef ‘wall’ here that attracts divers from all over the world. The only way to get here though is via small cruise ships. The cruise ships arrive in the mornings and disgorge hundreds of tourists to the beach or to dive. When we arrive here at 5 pm, it’s deserted. It’s also not what we expected in terms of an anchorage and we waffle over where to drop Strathspey’s anchor. We’re not happy to simply motor up close to the beach and anchor in sand and coral and hope for the best because there is a swell here and the wind drifts over the hills and funnels down through the bay. We motor back and forth at the 60-foot depth looking for the dive boat moorings that we’ve heard we can use if they are vacant. Nada…. The only mooring we see is an eight-foot high yellow mooring pilon for a cruise ship. It’s not ideal but we get bold and decide to tie up to it as the sun is setting and it will be dark soon. I’m at the wheel and I gently nose up to the pilon. Blair, on the bow, snags the rusty eyebolt on top with our boathook and threads one of our longer docklines through it. He uses two additional lines to tie to that dockline so we can just back off and leave when we need to. The sun sets and we are secure.

Throughout the night, Blair wakes up periodically and thinks about that rusty eyebolt sawing through our dockline but he has the anchor watch engaged on our chartplotter so we’ll have fair warning. The next morning, I see that the outer layer of our double-braided line has shredded because of the eyebolt but we are still holding. We bob gently in the swell and we have time to eat breakfast but I’m antsy and want to get out of here because I’m expecting a cruise ship in at any time. Blair does his NY Times crossword puzzle but leaps into action when I call to him, ‘Blair, a cruise ship coming around the point!’. Blair grabs one of the docklines and pulls us close to the pilon and retrieves two of our lines but the one that is completely shredded can’t be pulled through the eyebolt so we cut our losses and I back off the pilon and we motor north. We think that perhaps our luck may be running thin after that easy night.

We head north to La Coloma. It’s a ‘salty’ sail with waves over the bow and we’re heeled up at 15 degrees most of the day, I’m wedged into my usual spot in the pushpit but the sun is out and we’re warm. At one point, we sail behind a series of small cayos and drop the sail to begin picking our way through the surrounding reefs to deeper water to the north. Blair sends me to the bow to watch for coral heads and he slows down dramatically. We know it’s going to be pretty shallow going through this area and I’m thinking that he just wants me on the bow so I don’t squawk when the depth meter displays low water. I’m okay with this though and I maintain a close watch, signalling Blair to turn to port and starboard around the coral heads. We do this for almost two miles and then we are in deeper water and I feel Strathspey now moving at normal speed. When I go back to the cockpit, Blair tells me that the shallowest depth he saw was 0.9 feet under our keel. I’m glad I was on the bow.

Our guidebook tells us that we will be welcomed at La Coloma. It’s a commercial fishing port on the south coast of Cuba and close to some interesting inland travel. We talk about how, if the anchorage is nice and secure, we’ll leave Strathspey for a day or so and rent a car and tour the area. At 4 pm we reach the fairway buoy for La Coloma and enter the six-mile shallow channel into port. The port is well-protected and flat calm and we’re so happy to be here. We nose around the moored fishing boats (there are easily 25 of them) and then our VHF crackles to life. The port captain asks (in English) what our last port was and our nationality and then says he will be out in 20 minutes. We grab one of the many mooring balls and wait for his arrival. And here’s where the whole day starts going south.

Obviously our luck has run out. Two very junior Guarda Fronteras who speak no English motor out in a leaky boat wooden boat. We put out our fenders for them to come alongside. They board Strathspey and, unlike every other official we have encountered in Cuba, they just trundle aboard with their dirty boots and no respect. It was as if we had never cleared into the country previously. These two guys poke into every corner of Strathspey. They open every cupboard, they pick up every musical instrument and comment, they touch our clothes, they make Blair open bilge boards and they even make him take apart our CO2-inflatable lifejackets. We’ve never encountered anything like this in any of our travels through Cuba so it is quite a shock. They say we cannot stay here and we say we need diesel. They say there is no diesel for us and we cannot stay. We tell them that our anchor windlass is giving us trouble (it’s been making strange noises on the uphaul). They say we must pull it up by hand and we cannot stay. We say we must stay one night at least and they agree but they take our dispacho (expected) and our passports and Strathspey‘s boat registration. And then they leave. So, now we are bummed. No going ashore, no diesel and now we are basically under house arrest with our passports and boat registration in their hands.

An hour later, the two Guarda show up once again. They say that they have negotiated a two-day stay for us and do we have cervezas (beer) for them? We’re not feeling very gracious as we feel they have been very disrespectful of our ‘home’ but we give one of them a beer and the other an airline-sized bottle of rum and they leave after a half hour. Blair does his usual end of day navigation log stuff and I send a position report via our satellite phone; this tells our family and friends where we are and that all is good. Twenty minutes later, the Guarda Fronteras call our VHF radio and ask if we have a cell phone. We say no and then it seems quiet. Twenty minutes after that we hear the familiar putt-putt of our Guarda motor boat and the two junior Guarda come aboard again and want to look down below at our navigation equipment. They tell us that the military computers have shown that there was a satellite transmission for position and they want to know how we did it; that’s why they had asked if we had a cell phone. I show them our satellite phone and say we are telling our children we are here. They say, ‘No más’. Don’t do that again. So, we’ve been told. We say , ‘Si’ and they leave. We’re both fairly creeped out now and it’s an early night. Blair wakes at 3 am to tell me that the Guarda motor boat is hovering outside with flashlights pointed at Strathspey. We stay put down below and they leave; perhaps they are just ensuring we are still aboard, not sure.

The next morning, I start calling on the VHF …’Guarda Fronteras, La Coloma, this is the sailing vessel Strathspey’. I call from 7:45 am through to 9:15 am. All that interest in us the night before seems odd as they do not answer me this morning. Finally, we up-anchor and motor in to the main dock and tie alongside. At that point, one of the junior Guarda hastens off to retrieve the port captain. The port captain comes aboard at 9:45 and he speaks excellent English, is happy to check us out and wishes us a good day. We leave shortly after and head out the long channel. At this point, we need to regroup and top up on diesel. But….mostly we’re happy to have our passports back in hand and on our way out of La Coloma.

We have another tight-hauled sail east to Ensenada Los Barcos. The forecast is for light south winds tonight and this is a good all-weather anchorage at the north end of Juventud. We plan to go into Nueva Gerona to get diesel the following day and, if the Guarda are cooperative, take shelter from three nasty days of ‘northers’ coming our way. At 5:30 pm we arrive at the entrance to Ensenada Los Barcos and stay well south of the long shoal as we motor into the middle of the bay. Blair, on the bow, drops the anchor and we are happy to see that it is good holding as I power back at 1800 rmps. The wind is down to 7 knots and we have a quiet night here. It’s been a long squawk so I make us a comforting pasta dinner. We sleep well tonight with very little wind and no waves; a nice change.

The next morning we up-anchor and head 24 miles east to Nueva Gerona; here’s hoping that our second time in here we are lucky. It’s a quiet motor, not enough wind for sailing even. We know that there’s a big storm coming through. Our weather guy, Chris Parker, has said that there will be a cold front coming through, squalls to 40 knots and heavy rain. We plan to be into Nueva Gerona well before this but we’re a little nervous about how we’re going to negotiate this second visit, considering that the first visit was basically on their good humour because this is not a tourist destination and we were told that we could only stay two days maximum. Blair takes some time with our Spanish for Cruisers book and writes down the whole saga….diesel problems, La Coloma kicking us out, mal tiempo, problem with our anchor windlass, yadda, yadda, yadda.

As we make the turn in to the channel to Nueva Gerona, we see a small fishing boat cutting the corner in front of us. They make a stop at the Guarda Fronteras dock at the river entrance about twenty minutes later so now we have caught up with them. As we draw nearer, we see there are two fishermen aboard. One of them holds up, in turn, two huge yellowfin tunas to show us and indicates he wants to sell us some. At this point, both Strathspey and the fishing boat are motoring up the Rio Las Casas toward the ferry dock. Blair gets out our fishing net with some money to make the exchange but the fisherman shakes his head. He puts his right-hand two forefingers on his left shoulders and taps; that’s the Cuban signal for Guarda – the police – the epaulets on a shoulder of a soldier. He doesn’t want the Guarda Fronteras to see him selling his fish to us. He speaks English and says I will find you in the town.

We are motioned over to the ferry dock, well east of where we had tied up previously. The port captain wants us there to check in obviously. We pull in to the concrete pier and are told to wait for the port captain. We’re happy when he arrives as it seems there has been shift change and the port captain is the same person who checked us into Cayo Largo a few weeks ago and understands cruisers and their issues well. We greet him happily, offer him a cold cerveza and a bottle of rum. That probably helped as our port captain says you need diesel and you should only leave once the weather is good and your anchor windlass is fixed. Bueno we say! We move to our old spot in front of the last ferry and once we are settled in, we go in search of a big yellowfin tuna with our name on it.

Blair and Charlie tuna

Blair and Charlie tuna

The fishermen are waiting for us just outside the ferry terminal – Georges and Robert. Georges speaks good English; he learned it in Havana during his six-year university education as a naval engineer. He says the fish is at his house and leads us twenty minutes through the town to a small concrete house. He’s got two tunas on ice in a box beside his back door and we pick the smaller one. We really only want perhaps ¼ of the tuna but he doesn’t want to do this – it’s all or none. He weighs the fish and then gets out an old calculator and shows us that for a 26 pound tuna he only wants $41. We agree and he proceeds to process our fish. He cuts off the caudal fins and then makes a long slit along the fish’s gills and then, while his buddy holds the head, Georges grits his teeth and starts pulling the skin off in one long strip. He does this on both sides and then slices off what basically look like four massive pork tenderloins. The meat looks wonderful and, as we walk back to Strathspey, Blair says we should freeze some of it so we can have sashimi. I email our son, Sandy, and say ‘Help’, we have pounds and pounds of tuna and no recipes. Sandy knows sashimi and tuna and he immediately sends me some recipes so that night we try the first one: Grilled Mediterranean Ahi Tuna. The recipe says ‘Be brave, and cook it so the center is barely warm and still red – you will be surprised at the flavourful moistness and un-fishyness of this tuna’. I cook Blair’s tuna about 2 ½ minutes less than mine and we both agree that yellowfin tuna has just moved to the top of our list of favourite fish. We have enough tuna for easily 20 dinners and who knows how much sashimi. I even have some wasabi paste squirreled away in one of Strathspey‘s cupboards so we can get really fancy.

Blair cutting up tuna for Sashimi

Blair cutting up tuna for Sashimi

Throughout the next few days the wind moves from a mild southerly to a strong north direction, we have many hours of rain which washes Strathspey‘s decks clean and we top up with diesel, water, fruit and vegetables and more than one good night’s sleep. It’s gotten cold though with this north wind – each night we sleep under our down duvet and, when we explore Nueva Gerona, we wear many layers including our polar fleeces. We’re not complaining though because there’s no snow or ice and life is still good aboard Strathspey despite landing back here in the same location, one week and 240 miles later.